On a tale of two cities

Two trips to two cities - Vilnius in Lithuania and Tartu in Estonia. In Vilnius, you'll discover a city where ancient history meets bohemian creativity, where mermaids cast spells from riverbanks, and where an entire neighbourhood declared itself an independent republic. Tartu is dominated by the oldest university in the Baltics and presents a uniquely preserved cultural landscape that has evolved from medieval origins to modern street art. Join me as we explore Vilnius and Tartu.

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Transcript

On a tale of two cities

Two trips to two cities - one to Vilnius in Lithuania and the other to Tartu in Estonia. Both are easily reached by train from Riga in Latvia. In Vilnius, you'll discover a city where ancient history meets bohemian creativity, where mermaids cast spells from riverbanks, and where an entire neighbourhood declared itself an independent republic. Tartu is dominated by the oldest university in the Baltics and presents a uniquely preserved cultural landscape that has evolved from medieval origins to modern expression. Street art is alive and thriving in Tartu.

Join me as we explore the lively Vilnius and the 2024 European city of culture, Tartu, for two long weekend trips. Why drive when you can let the train take the strain.

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In May 2024, we made a long weekend trip to Vilnius, the capital city of Lithuania. The new blue train left Riga Central Station at 3 pm. As it does every day. Our expectations for the journey weren’t high - more on the level that seeing the neighbouring country’s capital city would be good. The train journey through the Latvian countryside past Jelgava and then into similar forest and field vistas in Lithuania was comfortable and smooth. Our train was surprisingly full, but we had seats, as Lithuanian Railways only sold tickets until all the seats were allocated. We arrived early in the evening in Vilnius, on time, and walked to our accommodation. I had booked an apartment very close to the old town on Booking.com. The apartment, Subačiaus Studio, if you want to stay there, was tastefully furnished and well-equipped. Contemporary art on all walls. Art became a constant theme on our trip. An apartment as we like to cook for ourselves in the evening when on trips. We find that more relaxing, especially with a young boy. Just beware that selling alcoholic drinks in supermarkets is forbidden after 8 pm Monday to Saturday and after 3 pm on Sundays. It keeps bars and cafes busy in the evening, although after a long trip, I just fancied slowly sipping a beer in our apartment!

The next day was our first proper exploration of Vilnius. We got a feel for this hilly city on the walk to the apartment as Apple Maps took us on a circuitous route to ensure we tested a few hills. And our patience. I deleted Apple Maps after that and went back to using Google Maps for walking navigation. I had made a list of things to find in Vilnius. There are many quirky monuments and I thought a treasure trail would be a fun way to get a nine-year-old son walking without moaning. First, we headed down the hill to Užupis. 

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The republic of Užupis.

Perhaps the most intriguing district in Vilnius is Užupis, a small neighbourhood that declared itself an independent republic on 1 April 1997. The name "Užupis" translates to "beyond the river" or "the other side of the river" in Lithuanian, referring to its location across the Vilnia River from Vilnius's Old Town. This bohemian enclave has been compared to Montmartre in Paris and Freetown Christiania in Copenhagen due to its artistic spirit and laissez-faire atmosphere.

Despite covering less than one square kilometre with only about 7,000 inhabitants (nearly 1,000 of whom are artists), Užupis has established all the trappings of statehood: its own constitution, flag, unofficial currency, president, and cabinet of ministers. The republic's flag features a palm on a white background, with the colour changing seasonally - blue for winter, green for spring, yellow for summer, and red for autumn.

What makes Užupis particularly charming is its whimsical approach to independence. Its Independence Day falls on April 1 (April Fools' Day), suggesting the tongue-in-cheek nature of its declaration. The republic has even granted honorary citizenship to the 14th Dalai Lama, who has visited the district and planted a tree in its Tibet Square.

One of Užupis's most beloved symbols is its bronze mermaid sculpture, created by artist Romas Vilčiauskas in 2002. Perched in a small brick enclave on the edge of the Vilnia River, this mesmerising figure has developed its own mythology. The mermaid sits with her tail slightly to one side, her chest bare, and her snake-like hair splayed out in all directions, reminiscent of Medusa. What captivates viewers most is her facial expression - simultaneously sad and longing, almost begging for company. Local legend warns that those who fail to resist her charms (or dare to look too long into her eyes) will be bound to live out their days in Užupis forever. I loved the bohemian atmosphere in Užupis, so that wouldn’t be such a bad penalty to me! Although the hundreds of visiting tourists might be. In 2004, this beloved sculpture was lost to rising waters during a flood of the Vilnia River. Thankfully, she was recovered and restored to her alcove, where she continues to cast her spell on visitors from around the world. The mermaid symbolises love, temptation, intuition, hope, and power.

A more recent addition to Užupis's magical menagerie is the Užupis Cat, created by artist Jonas Geltis at the initiative of jeweller Viktorija Orkinė. This whimsical feline, perched on the fence of house number 2 on Polocko Street, isn't just an ordinary sculpture - it's an interactive piece with its own mythical powers. According to local legend, this cat helps people overcome their fears. The inscription invites visitors to "Scratch my ear – you will no longer feel fear". This playful invitation connects to Article 13 of the Užupis Constitution, which declares: "The cat does not have to love his owner, but must help him in a difficult moment". Interestingly, there was once a pet market in nearby Užupis Square, which might explain why cats enjoy special status in the area - they're abundant in every yard and said to have "exclusive rights". A bit like our cat in Riga!

Standing tall in Užupis's central square is the impressive 9-metre-high statue of Archangel Gabriel, also created by Romas Vilčiauskas and erected in 2002. Known as the Angel of Užupis, this bronze sentinel symbolises growth and rebirth, with his trumpet announcing a new age of free thinking for the nation. Urban legend suggests that the Dalai Lama recommended placing an angel sculpture here during his visit to Vilnius.

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Art, crafts and culture in Vilnius.

Beyond Užupis, Vilnius offers another unique artistic experience with its Talking Statues project. Launched in 2015 as part of a global initiative that began in Copenhagen, the project features 24 sculptures that literally "speak" to visitors.

The concept is simple: Visitors scan QR codes near the statues, triggering a phone call to their mobile devices. Suddenly, they receive a call from Frank Zappa, Grand Duke Gediminas, or French writer Romain Gary, speaking with a French accent. Each monologue was created by famous Lithuanian writers and performed by Lithuanian actors, singers, and public figures.

In 2019, the Talking Statues project expanded to include the Cat sculpture (created in memory of writer Jurga Ivanauskaitė) and "Electra". The Cat is voiced in Lithuanian by actor Rolandas Kazlas and in English by Paulius Markevicius, with text written by writer Daiva Cepauskaite.

Another fascinating district in Vilnius is the Glass Quarter, a historically significant area with layers of cultural heritage. Dating back to the 15th century, this district was initially a goldsmith village before becoming home to glass manufacturers in the 16th century.

In the 17th century, the area gained new significance when King Ladislaus IV Vasa granted the Jewish community the right to establish its own quarter here. It became the first Jewish quarter in Vilnius and evolved into a bustling hub of Jewish life and culture, filled with markets, restaurants, bars, and shops. Notable landmarks included the Great Synagogue, which could accommodate up to 3,000 people, and the Matas Strašūnas Judaistic Library.

The quarter earned its name from the three Glass Streets that were filled with glassmakers' workshops in the 19th century. Vilnius was actually the first city in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania to launch a glass workshop, meeting demand from wealthy locals, foreign visitors, and the royal court. Interestingly, Bishop Jan established the first glasshouse in Vilnius in 1519, making it one of the first of its kind in Eastern Europe. Walking through this district, you can still spot historical remnants, such as the year 1661 inscribed on a house wall at Stiklių Street 16.

As you wander through the Old Town of Vilnius, you'll discover a narrow, winding pedestrian path with a unique artistic treasure. Literatų Street, named after the renowned poet Adam Mickiewicz, who lived here in 1823, has transformed from an unremarkable alley into one of the city's most captivating artistic displays.

In 2009, when Vilnius served as the European Capital of Culture, a group of local artists embarked on an ambitious project to honour the street's literary connections. What began with just a few decorative plaques has blossomed into a sprawling installation featuring over 225 artistic tributes to writers connected to Lithuania.

Walking along this street today, you'll be mesmerised by the wall adorned with these unique artworks. Each plaque is distinctively designed and varies in shape, size, colour, and material. Some emerge three-dimensionally from the wall, crafted from metal, wood, glass, or ceramic. You'll find author portraits, meaningful quotations, abstract representations, and even unusual sculptures — including one that's simply a set of teeth.

While most writers are Lithuanian, the wall also celebrates international authors with connections to Vilnius. You might spot tributes to Russian poet Joseph Brodsky, French novelist Stendhal, and even American writer Jonathan Franzen. The project continues to grow, with new plaques being added regularly, making each visit potentially different from the last.

This street is particularly special because it represents Vilnius's complex cultural identity. The city has long been a borderland where multiple cultures overlap, and the wall reflects this rich tapestry through its diverse literary tributes.

The best way to see Vilnius is to walk. Pick up a free map at your accommodation or a tourist office, or use a map on your phone. Then, just follow people. You won’t get terribly lost - the centre of Vilnius isn’t so big. When you need a rest, pop into a cafe - or sit outside in warmer weather. Enjoy a coffee or something stronger. We found a small bar just selling cherry liquor. It was very busy, and yes, very cherry colour!

There were a surprising number of people - local people as well as tourists - walking and enjoying the city. Street musicians held impromptu concerts, with many people crowded around, listening and enjoying the music. Such a nice friendly atmosphere. People were laughing and just revelling in the company of friends and family. You don’t see that in Riga. The old town of Riga is for tourists. Groups of British young men, Italian young people, and Estonians. Many shops and cafes in the old town of Riga are empty. You don’t see street musicians apart from the Russian accordion player, who I am sure played in the same spot in the 1990s! Even the buskers in the underpass near Origo have been moved on.

That picture is not the case in Vilnius. The city is thriving and appears to have a good balance between tourism generation and the city belonging to its inhabitants. I was very impressed. I suggest that Riga city council and its tourism staff spend a long weekend in Vilnius. By train. With eyes wide open!

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A Long Weekend in Tartu: Estonia's Cultural Heart.

In late October 2024 we took the 11 am train from Riga Central Station to Valga, the border town in Estonia. Half - Valka - is in Latvia. The other half - Valga - is in Estonia. A near three-hour journey. There we transferred to the rather more modern Estonian trains for the shorter trip to Tartu.

Estonia's second-largest city and 2024 European Capital of Culture, Tartu, can legitimately claim to be Estonia's cultural heart. Written records dating back to the 11th century make it the oldest city in the Baltic States. We stayed in a lovely, very old apartment right in the heart of Tartu's old town. Gildi Dolce Vita is available on booking.com or Air BNB. It is a perfect base for exploring Tartu on foot, and the Italian restaurant opposite is excellent if you don’t fancy cooking.

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The University of Tartu Botanical Garden: A Living Museum.

Our first place to visit in the morning after our journey was the University of Tartu Botanical Garden, a short walk from our accommodation. This is a testament to Estonia's dedication to natural sciences and education. Founded in 1803, it is the oldest botanical garden in the Baltic States and has operated at its current location since 1806. When you enter its gates, you're walking through more than two centuries of botanical history.

What makes this garden particularly special is its design by world-renowned botanists Professors Ledebour and Bunge. Their scientific vision shaped the eleven distinct gardens that comprise the outdoor collections. While late October might not showcase the garden in its full glory, the real treasure during the colder months lies indoors.

The greenhouses of the Botanical Garden are divided into four distinct climate sections: the palm house, the hot and humid tropical house, the near-tropical house, and the desert plant section. These controlled environments house more than 700 square metres of growing space with exotic plants from almost every continent. The contrast between the cold Estonian October outside and the lush tropical environment inside creates a striking sensory experience.

Beyond plants, the greenhouses also host turtles, fish, parrots, and giant grasshoppers, making it a mini ecosystem rather than simply a plant collection. With more than 10,000 species and varieties of plants throughout the entire facility, the garden represents one of Estonia's most significant living collections. We loved the large number of turtles. You do need a good head for heights if climbing the winding, see-through, metal steps up to the higher levels of the greenhouses. There is one lift. Yes, we took that. Up and down!

The garden's founding coincided with the establishment of the University of Tartu Natural History Museum in 1802, marking the beginning of Estonia's oldest museum. This period represented a significant time in Estonian scientific development, when natural history collections were assembled for both research and public education. The garden was originally located elsewhere, near what is now Vanemuine Street, before being relocated to its current location on a former bastion at Lai Street on the northern side of the old town.

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Supilinn: The Neighbourhood Named After Soup.

Walking from the Botanical Garden to Supilinn takes you into one of Europe's most distinctive historic neighbourhoods. Known as "Soup Town," this area earned its quirky name from its streets, which are named after ingredients you might find in soup: Kartuli (Potato), Herne (Pea), Oa (Bean), Marja (Berry), and Meloni (Melon).

Supilinn represents something rare in Europe – one of the last surviving historic slums dating back to the mid-18th century. What makes this location particularly fascinating is how it originated and evolved. The area sprang up around the A Le Coq brewery on the swampy banks of the Emajõgi River, where cheap land attracted poor brewery workers who built wooden houses on land that flooded annually.

The locality’s development was directly shaped by Tartu's university culture. As Estonia's oldest and most important university town, Tartu had a steady influx of poor students from rural areas who needed affordable housing. This student population contributed to Supilinn's bohemian character, creating a district known for its lively, somewhat reckless atmosphere where "booze was more plentiful than clean water".

What's remarkable about Supilinn is that while much of Tartu was devastated during various wars, this poorer district somehow survived with its wooden architecture intact. Today, the neighbourhood offers a glimpse into historical Estonian wooden housing traditions while undergoing a fascinating transformation.

In recent decades, Supilinn has experienced gentrification, transforming from a neglected area into one of Tartu's most desirable residential areas. What makes Supilinn's gentrification story unique is the bottom-up civil movement that formed to manage this process sustainably. Unlike many gentrifying localities worldwide, Supilinn's residents organised to slow development and preserve the area's distinctive character.

Today's Supilinn features colourful wooden houses, green courtyards, the Emajõgi River, and a beloved Frog Pond, all of which contribute to a strong sense of community identity. The pond is supposed to contain turtles, but we couldn’t find any - or frogs - although we did look.

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The Heart of Tartu: Town Hall Square.

Moving from the bohemian charm of Supilinn to the historic centre of Tartu brings us to Town Hall Square, which has served as the city's heart since the 13th century. This square represents the historical and cultural nucleus of Tartu, having functioned as a marketplace, cultural gathering point, and now a vibrant urban space filled with cafés.

The square's architectural centrepiece is the Town Hall itself, an elegant building constructed between 1782 and 1789 following Tartu's devastating Great Fire of 1775. Designed by German architect Johann Heinrich Bartholomäus Walter, the Town Hall represents an interesting architectural blend of early Neoclassical style with Baroque and Rococo details.

What many visitors don't realise is that the current Town Hall is actually the third consecutive building on this site. From its inception, the building was designed as a multifunctional space, housing not only the city government but also a prison and storage for weights and measures.  This practical approach to civic architecture continues today, with a pharmacy still operating within the Town Hall building.

The square's most beloved modern feature is the "Kissing Students" fountain, designed by Mati Karmin and installed in 1998. Despite its relatively recent addition, this playful sculpture has quickly become a symbol of the city, capturing Tartu's youthful, academic spirit.

Another notable feature is the Arch Bridge, spanning the Emajõgi River since 1959, replacing the impressive 18th-century Stone Bridge destroyed in 1944. A time-honoured student tradition involves taking a daring walk over the top of this arch – a rite of passage that continues to this day. Don’t try it!

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Tartu's Street Art: Legitimised Rebellion.

The most surprising aspect of Tartu's cultural landscape is its vibrant street art scene. Estonia generally prohibits street art, making Tartu's embrace of this art form exceptional. Tartu has become known as "the capital of Estonian street art", where illegal street art is highly tolerated by both residents and city authorities. I took so many photos of interesting artworks.

This unique tolerance creates an environment where artists invest significant effort in their creations, knowing their work might remain visible for years rather than being quickly removed.

One of Estonia's most celebrated street artists, Edward von Lõngus (often called "Estonia's Banksy"), has created numerous works throughout Tartu. His pieces often incorporate themes from Estonian culture, politics, and history. Among his notable works are portraits of famous Estonian literary figures Lydia Koidula and Anton Hansen Tammsaare, depicted as homeless people – a commentary on how these cultural icons, once featured on Estonian currency, were symbolically "devalued" after Estonia adopted the Euro in 2011.

Another significant work is "Kannahabe ja Nõiakütt" ("Cannabeard and the Witch-Hunter"), which comments on Estonia's strict drug policies by showing a policeman arresting a character with cannabis for a beard. This piece won the Tartu City Culture Award in 2014.

The "Ms. Reet" mural by French artist MTO depicts a shop owner with her hands tied, protesting against the planned demolition of her building to make way for a supermarket – an example of how street art in Tartu often engages directly with local social issues.

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AH HAA Science Centre: Tartu's Temple of Interactive Discovery.

Nestled in the heart of Tartu, the AH HAA Science Centre stands as a beacon of scientific curiosity and hands-on learning. As the largest science centre in the Baltic states, this 11,156 m² marvel has welcomed over 3 million visitors since its establishment in 1997, with its current avant-garde building opening in 2011 after outgrowing multiple locations. Designed by acclaimed Estonian architects Vilen Künnapu and Ain Padrik, the structure itself became an award-winning landmark, earning recognition as Tartu's "Best Building" in 2010 for its innovative metal roof construction that symbolically bridges Estonia's technological ambitions with its educational heritage. The centre's origin story reads like a scientific fairytale. Founded as a University of Tartu outreach project in 1997, AH HAA (Estonian for "Aha!") began as a travelling exhibition before evolving into a cultural phenomenon. The driving force behind this transformation was Tiiu Sild, the centre's first director whose footprints were immortalised in Tartu's Alley of Fame in 2011 – a rare honour reflecting her impact on Estonian science education. Under her leadership, AH HAA became instrumental in Tartu earning the "European City of Scientific Culture" designation, with its success story culminating in the 2011 move to a purpose-built facility that tripled visitor capacity.

The science centre's physical space reflects its philosophical mission. The main building's glass-and-steel exterior gives way to four floors of interactive wonder, where visitors might find themselves cycling 8 metres above ground on a suspension cable in the Hall of Technology or navigating a mirror maze in the lobby. This vertical playground of science contains hidden historical treasures – the second-floor balcony houses the University of Tartu's Medical Collection, displaying anatomical specimens and surgical instruments dating back to 1803, while the third-floor hosts optical illusions that challenge perception. The building's pièce de résistance remains its spherical hybrid planetarium, featuring a glass floor that extends projections beneath visitors' feet. However, we didn’t visit that. We, especially my son, spent a good three hours or so trying all the scientific games. Great learning and great fun! 

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Vilnius offers a treasure trove of quirky, artistic, and historically rich experiences that would fascinate any traveller. The city celebrates artistic expression, preserves its rich multicultural heritage, and maintains a delightfully whimsical spirit that makes it unlike any other European capital. Vilnius offers visitors a fascinating journey through a city where art and history intertwine at every corner. From the self-declared artists' republic of Užupis with its enchanting mermaid and fear-dispelling cat, to the interactive talking statues scattered throughout the city, and the centuries-old traditions of the Glass Quarter, Vilnius reveals itself as a place where creativity, independence, and history create a uniquely captivating urban landscape.

Tartu offers a remarkable blend of history and innovation. From the centuries-old Botanical Garden to the bohemian Supilinn neighbourhood with vegetable-named streets, the historical Town Hall Square with its iconic "Kissing Students" fountain, and the vibrant street art scene that thrives despite legal restrictions elsewhere in Estonia. Plus the fun of the AH HAA science centre, especially for kids and young people.

Two trips for the bucket list?

[Image by Clker-Free-Vector-Images and music by ztmusic on Pixabay]