An Englishman in Latvia
An Englishman in Latvia
On chocolate
Latvia has a rich tradition of chocolate making. A history spanning over 150 years. We will look at and taste the products of two very different chocolatiers - Laima, which was the leading chocolate maker in the Soviet Union and still is hugely popular, and Pūre, a newer entrepreneurial company from a small town in western Latvia that produces the most amazing truffles. Join me on a culinary journey.
Thanks for listening!
On chocolate
Latvia has a rich tradition of chocolate making. A history spanning over 150 years of political and economic change. We will look and taste the products of two very different chocolatiers - Laima, which was the leading chocolate maker in the Soviet Union and still is hugely popular, and Pūre, a newer entrepreneurial company from a small town in western Latvia that produces the most amazing truffles. Join me on a culinary journey.
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Let’s take a journey through time and uncover the history of Laima. It all began in 1870 when German entrepreneur Theodor Riegert founded the first chocolate factory in Rīga, in the era of the Russian Empire. During this period, chocolate was considered an exclusive product, making Riegert’s enterprise a luxurious novelty in the region. This marked the beginning of a long and winding road for what would eventually become Laima.
The foundation of the modern Laima began in 1921, when a group of Jewish entrepreneurs established the Makedonija Association on Karlines Road, now known as Miera Street. This small venture initially employed only four workers but focused exclusively on chocolate production. As production volumes grew substantially over the next four years, the owners decided to expand operations and rename the company, adopting the name “Laima” in 1925.
But Laima’s journey wasn’t without its challenges. A significant shift occurred in 1937 when the Latvian government purchased both Riegert’s company and Laima, merging and nationalising what had become successful businesses to form a larger company under the Laima brand. By this time, Laima chocolates were not only sold domestically but exported to markets including the United States, Great Britain, Africa, France, and Sweden. During both the pre-war 1930s and throughout the Soviet occupation period, Laima maintained its position as Latvia’s main chocolatier, while L.W. Goegginger (later renamed Uzvara by Soviet authorities) focused on producing hard sweets. Despite the challenges of centralised planning, Laima continued its development under Soviet control, producing sweets for distribution across all Soviet republics.
I lived and worked in Moscow in the early 1980s as a young 21-year-old. At that time there were shortages of food products. I did the Russian thing and carried a small, orange string bag in my pocket whenever out. This bag magically expanded to carry anything one might find in a food shop. You needed to buy it there and then or it would be gone! I remember buying Laima chocolate and enjoying the taste. At that time, food you could buy was rather basic. Laima chocolate was an affordable luxury.
After Latvia regained independence in the 1990s, Laima demonstrated remarkable adaptability by merging with both Uzvara (the hard sweet producer) and Staburadze (a biscuit, wafer, and cake manufacturer) to form a consolidated enterprise under the Laima name. Unlike similar regional confectioners such as Lithuania’s Karūna, Sweden’s Marabou, and Norway’s Freia, Laima initially avoided acquisition by international conglomerates like Kraft Foods in the post-Soviet transition period. Ownership of Laima was controlled by Nordic Food, led by local businessman Daumants Vītols. The company briefly entered the Riga Stock Exchange in December 2006 before returning to private ownership in July 2007. Eventually, in August 2014, the parent company of Laima was acquired by Norway’s Orkla Group, marking a new chapter in the company’s development.
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Laima’s significance extends beyond mere confectionery production - it’s an integral part of Latvian cultural identity. The “Laima clock” has an interesting history. In 1924, a clock at the entry to the Old Town was established at the request of the Saeima/parliament member Andrejs Veckalns in order to help workers not be late for work. People started to call it “the clock of Veckalns”. In 1929, the clock was linked to the astronomy observatory at the University of Latvia, and became the most accurate clock in the city. It also started to be used as a meeting place. In 1934, the sides of the clock displayed the name of the chocolate producer Theodor Riegert. In 1935, the clock was moved several meters away from the edge of the street. In 1936, the clock was renovated and decorated with Laima branding and started to be called the “Laima clock”. In Soviet times, starting from 1940, the clock was used for political information. For example, there was a time when the sides of the clock were decorated by the inscription of “peace” in various languages. In 1976, the clock standing on what was then the corner of Lenin Street and Soviet Boulevard (currently the corner of Brivibas and Aspazijas Boulevard) was well-known by every resident of Riga. It was decorated with a series of colourful images with “Daiļrade” written on it, a craft place in Soviet times. The pictures displayed jewellery, amber, bright decorative carpets, and leather products. In 1995, after Latvian independence was regained, the Laima clock was renovated. Until then, the mechanism of the clock had been located in a kiosk, but now it was placed within the structure of the clock itself, and a spare electronic mechanism installed in the kiosk. In 1999, the clock was completely reconstructed, and the design from the 1930s returned. Laima gave the clock to Rīga as a present on its 800th anniversary. In 2017, the clock was restored in honour of the centenary of Latvia's statehood. The renovated clock plays melodies every hour composed by the much-loved Raimonds Pauls.
The iconic Laima clock in Rīga stands close by the Freedom Monument right in the heart of Rīga. This has long been regarded as a clandestine meeting point for lovers. Go find it if you are in Rīga!
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What are Laima’s chocolates like, you may be wondering. Let’s talk about some of the most popular Laima products.
Serenade Chocolate. This iconic sweet, introduced in 1937, is made with fruit jelly, apricots, nuts, and a special “chocolate magic” that has remained unchanged over the years. There is a lovely story about its beginnings. In 1937, a shy confectionery master decided to express his love to his girlfriend by creating an original sweet from English jelly, apricots, and nuts. This remains the only Laima chocolate whose recipe was born in-house and continues to be the company’s exclusive property. That, during Soviet times, was against the principle of sharing everything. However, a little secret from Laima - how to make Serenade chocolates! Place puréed apricots and apples in a saucepan and add sugar. Boil everything to the consistency of a thick jam, then add crumbled, roasted nuts to the mixture until it has a thick, twisty texture. This finished mass is moulded by pouring it onto a smooth surface. On the second day, after the mass has cooled and set, cut into individual-sized pieces and glaze with chocolate. Voilá!
In 1938, Laima obtained exclusive rights to produce porous chocolate, leading to the creation of Aero porous chocolate. I recall eating a porous chocolate called the Aero bar in England as a child. The Aero bar was an aerated chocolate produced by Nestlé, originally introduced by Rowntree’s in the UK in 1935. However, there is no direct connection between Nestlé’s Aero and Laima’s Aero. Laima obtained rights to produce porous chocolate in 1938, leading to their own version of Aero, which is not related to Nestlé’s product. Laima’s Aero was likely a separate development based on their own technology and rights to produce porous chocolate.
Later, in the mid-1950s, as the company intensified its focus on chocolate production, it introduced Rigonda chocolate, featuring a package design by the famous Latvian artist Gunārs Kirke — a design that has remained unchanged and continues to appeal to consumers.
Prozit Boxes. These contain chocolate bottles filled with liqueur, making them a delightful treat for those who enjoy a mix of chocolate and spirits. They have a long history dating back to 1925, making them one of the oldest Laima products still available today. In the 1930s, Laima offered a collection of seven types of liquor-filled chocolates, all with intriguing names. We had Intoxicating Cherry, Lady's Tongues with liqueur, Prozit, Cognac, Moka liqueur with gelatine, Cognac No.3 and Cocktail. I just checked our present-day box. We have Riga Black Balsam, Riga Black Balsam Currant, Cranberry and Mulled Wine. It was a box from Christmas, now on special offer! Prozit are one of my wife’s favourites at Christmas. I call them killers, having nearly choked to death trying one once. There is definitely an art to eating them. First, chomp off the chocolate, wine bottle-shaped neck. Then, drink the liquor by tipping the chocolate up. Finally, eat the chocolate bottle. Putting the whole chocolate into the mouth can be fatal!
Lācītis Ķepainītis was originally created as a sweet in 1945, and has now evolved into a 100g chocolate bar featuring mild milk chocolate with airy waffles and whole almonds. The reproduction of the painting by Russian painter Ivan Shishkin, "Morning in a Pine Forest", is printed on the sweet’s wrapper. It is thought that Shishkin created this painting near Narva-Jesuu in Estonia, where he used to rest in summer.
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The Laima Chocolate Museum offers an immersive experience into Latvia’s chocolate heritage. Located at Miera iela 22 in Rīga (the same street where the original Makedonija factory operated), the museum invites visitors to engage with chocolate through all senses—seeing, tasting, hearing, and feeling. Take tram number 11 from the centre of Rīga, direction Mežaparks, and get off at stop ‘Laima’. Of course!
As part of your museum visit, you will be able to taste a melted chocolate drink and eat some classic chocolates while learning about the history of Laima. You can examine the ingredients that form the chocolate production process and understand the differences between chocolate types. As a PR person, I particularly liked the old advertising posters and gift packaging. At the end of your visit, you put your entrance card into a photo device and can download the selfie-style image of yourself surrounded by Laima chocolates. Mine looks like a massive Serenade chocolate will fall on my head!
The museum showcases Laima’s origins, tracing back to 1870 when Theodor Rigert began delighting Rīga residents with chocolate delicacies. Exhibits include vintage packaging, advertising posters from the last century, a cocoa bean wall, a replica of the Laima clock and an ancient cocoa bean milling machine.
Some practical information for your visit. The museum is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, and open Wednesday through Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Allow an hour for your visit. It is a small but very interesting museum. You will also get a discount card to use in the attached Laima shop.
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Now to Pūre, a small town in western Latvia about a one-hour’s drive from Rīga past Tukums. You might drive straight through this rather unremarkable town with a school, a small supermarket and a petrol station. But turn left in the middle of the town to Pūre Chocolate. There, on a steep bank overlooking a river plain, is the chocolatier. You will find the factory, a museum and an excellent restaurant. The restaurant does have restricted opening times, so best to contact in advance if you are visiting. My tip. If it is closed and you are hungry, continue driving towards Ventspils for a mile or so to Apšukrogs on your map (it is a settlement of roughly two buildings), and the building on your right - not left - is an excellent cafe with cheap but very well cooked food.
The chocolatier was founded in 2007 when three chocolate enthusiasts came together to fulfil their dream to create gourmet chocolate truffles with natural fruit and berry fillings and garnishes. Over the years, they perfected their chocolate craft, becoming truffle experts combining rich chocolate, creamy fillings and natural decorations. Today, Pūre Chocolate truffles are available in more than 30 unique flavours and exported to more than 20 countries around the world. They take pride in their Latvian roots and draw inspiration from Latvia's rich nature. For fillings, they use real fruit and berry purees, and decorate the chocolate truffles using sublimated and dried berries from Latvian forests and gardens, as well as berry powders.
The Pūre Chocolate Museum offers a complementary perspective to Laima’s city-based museum. If driving, the sat nav address is 9, Pūre, Pūre parish, a turn to the left in the middle of the town if coming from Rīga. At the Chocolate Museum, you can explore the diverse world of chocolate — from cocoa cultivation to chocolate creation. Visitors can enjoy guided tours led by a chocolatier, warm chocolate tastings and engaging workshops in which you can craft your own chocolate treats. Or just learn more about these wonderful chocolates from the displays, as I did. You can do some tasting, too, as the museum also offers a wide range of Pūre Chocolate products at special prices from its museum shop. The museum is open seven days a week from the 1st of April until the end of October, and Wednesday to Saturday during winter months.
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Pūre specialises in chocolate truffles. These are the best that I have ever tasted. You can buy them in all of Latvia’s supermarkets, and we have found them in Estonia too. I’m at home, and sitting in front of me is a selection of Pūre chocolates. We have Belgian cookies, lemon meringue, macchiato, toffee, marzipan, hazelnuts and crunchy cookies, milk caramel, blueberry yoghurt, and gingerbread (a Christmas special). For once, both my wife and I agree on something. Our favourites in a tied first place are Belgian chocolate and gingerbread.
Pūre also produce truffles in boxes with cheesecake, cherry, passion fruit, zabaglione and blackcurrant. And that’s just picking out some delightful truffles on our unopened box. Pūre won the European Carton Excellence Awards 2018 with a series of exclusive boxes for various chocolate truffles that were created especially for the 100-year anniversary of Latvia. These cartons were produced in cooperation with the Latvian Culture Capital Foundation, which provided pictures of the traditional jewellery used in the artwork. The series consisted of three different shaped boxes that were designed to inspire patriotic feelings.
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Taste a bit of history with Laima, or explore wonderful truffles from the small town of Pūre. Both are a truly affordable luxury. They are also very easy to find and enjoy if you are in Latvia, but if not, search for them in your home country. You may well find them. And decide which chocolate is your favourite!
[Photo of an old Laima poster taken by An Englishman in Latvia. Music - dark chocolate - from Pixabay Sounds.]
