An Englishman in Latvia
An Englishman in Latvia
On Rīga's art nouveau architecture
Rīga has the highest concentration of art nouveau buildings in the world, with around 800 buildings constructed primarily between 1904-1914 during an economic boom under the British Mayor of Rīga, George Armitstead. They have survived two world wars and the Soviet occupation. Join me as we explore the history of these remarkable buildings and their master architects.
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Riga’s art nouveau architecture
When I first arrived in Rīga in 1996, the one thing that struck me was the amazing art nouveau architecture. Rīga has the highest concentration of art nouveau buildings in the world, with around 800 buildings constructed primarily between 1904-1914 during an economic boom under the British Mayor of Rīga, George Armitstead. They have survived two world wars and the Soviet occupation. Join me as we explore the history of these remarkable buildings and their master architects, sharing a few fascinating stories along the way. You will get lots of clues on what to look for if you are visiting Rīga.
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In late summer 2016, I drove to Latvia to begin my posting as deputy British ambassador. Driving along the boulevards into the centre of Rīga from Tallinn in Estonia, I recall the grand buildings. A mix of styles that fitted in as they were of a similar height. What struck me were the details on the buildings. It gave each one an individuality. OK, some days after arriving, I saw the boring prefabricated blocks, known as sleeping dormitories, built during the Soviet occupation to house the Russian migrant workers on the outskirts of Rīga. In 2016, the number of foreigners was relatively small, and the property rental market was also small. After living with my family in a hotel room for six months, the Embassy found me a newly renovated apartment on Elizabetes iela. Not only was this close to work, it was in an art nouveau style. Wonderful! A top-floor apartment, it looked out over Kronvalda Park and was practically next door to my favourite restaurant, run by the now late British-Latvian chef Mārtiņš Rītiņš.
Approximately one-third of all buildings in Rīga’s centre are in the distinctive style of art nouveau. However, perhaps we should first explain this architectural style. Art nouveau is an artistic movement from the late 19th and early 20th centuries that rejected mundane architecture in favour of more expressive designs featuring curves, brightness, and decorative elements inspired by nature. In different countries, this style had different names - art nouveau in France and Belgium, jugendstil in Germany, and secession in Austria. The development of art nouveau in Rīga coincided with a period of unprecedented prosperity and growth. Between 1897 and 1913, the city’s population grew by an astonishing 88%, reaching 530,000 by 1914, making it the fifth-largest city in the Russian Empire and the third largest in the Baltic region. This rapid development occurred after the city began expanding beyond medieval Rīga following the demolition of its walls between 1857 and 1863.
The economic boom led to a construction frenzy under the Mayor of Rīga, the Briton George Armitstead. Please listen to my podcast about Mayor Armitstead, my hero, to learn more about this remarkable individual. Between 1905 and 1914, approximately 300-500 buildings were constructed annually in Rīga, mostly in the art nouveau style. Building permits were swiftly approved, and structures were typically completed within a year.
Jump forward nearly a century, and Rīga’s art nouveau architecture gained UNESCO World Heritage status in 1997, when the historic centre of Rīga was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The inscription specifically recognised the city’s unparalleled concentration and quality of art nouveau buildings as a key reason for its outstanding universal value.
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There are four distinct sub-styles of art nouveau found in Rīga, which makes the city’s architectural landscape particularly fascinating.
- Eclectic or decorative art nouveau
This was the earliest manifestation of art nouveau in Rīga. Buildings in this style feature exaggerated ornamental trimmings that often lack direct connection with the building’s architecture. From a distance, these buildings can be difficult to distinguish from 19th-century eclecticism, with only the decorative motifs revealing their art nouveau identity. Rīga’s very first art nouveau building, completed in 1899 and located on Audēju iela 7, falls into this category. It was designed by German architects Alfred Aschenkampff and Max Scherwinsky.
- Perpendicular or vertical art nouveau
This more streamlined, rationalist approach emerged as the style evolved. Building facades became dominated by vertical rather than horizontal lines, emphasising height and grandeur. Approximately one-third of Rīga’s art nouveau buildings belong to this sub-style. These buildings feature geometric ornaments seamlessly woven into the architecture, creating a cohesive whole. The exteriors faithfully reflect the interior layout, breaking from the tradition of facades as mere ornaments. Many examples can be found along Brīvības iela, Ģertrūdes iela, Krišjāņa Barona iela, and Aleksandra Čaka iela.
- National romantic art nouveau
This uniquely Latvian sub-style emerged between 1905 and 1915 during the Latvian national revival. It incorporated Latvian ethnic patterns and mythological figures into its building designs, using tall gabled roofs reminiscent of vernacular Latvian architecture. This style makes Latvia one of the few nations to have had their own widespread “ethnic architectural style” as late as the 20th century. Unlike other forms of art nouveau, the facades of national romantic style buildings have neither distinct horizontal nor vertical lines. One striking example is the apartment building at Alberta 11, designed by Eižens Laube, which reflects the efforts of Latvian architects to create a national style that incorporates natural elements, such as travertine and wood, and is embellished with ethnographic ornamentation.
- Neo-classical art nouveau
The fourth sub-style incorporated classical elements with art nouveau sensibilities. This style represented a transition toward more traditional architectural elements while maintaining the innovative spirit of art nouveau.
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Rīga’s art nouveau architecture owes its global renown to a cadre of visionary master architects who blended international art nouveau trends with local Latvian identity. In fact, very few foreign architects designed the art nouveau buildings in Rīga. Four Latvian figures stand out as pivotal to this movement: Mikhail Eisenstein, Konstantīns Pēkšēns, Eižens Laube, and Aleksandrs Vanags. Their works transformed Rīga into a living museum of early 20th-century design, with over 800 buildings reflecting distinct sub-styles from flamboyant eclecticism to austere national romanticism.
Mikhail Eisenstein (1867–1920). The theatrical visionary.
Mikhail Osipovich Eisenstein was a civil engineer and architect whose flamboyant art nouveau buildings have become some of Rīga’s most iconic landmarks. Born in 1867 in Bila Tserkva, in what is now Ukraine, Eisenstein came from a Jewish merchant family and later converted to Russian Orthodoxy. He studied civil engineering in Saint Petersburg and moved to Ríga in the 1890s, working first in public infrastructure before turning to architecture.
Between 1901 and 1906, during Rīga’s economic boom, Eisenstein designed around 20 buildings, most famously the exuberant apartment houses on Alberta iela and Elizabetes iela. His style is instantly recognisable: dramatic contrasts, rich sculptural ornamentation, and a symbolist vocabulary featuring mythological figures and giant female heads. Each building competes with its neighbours in decorative extravagance, making Alberta iela a living gallery of art nouveau. Eisenstein’s legacy also lives on through his son, Sergei Eisenstein, the renowned Soviet film director.
Next master, Konstantīns Pēkšēns (1859–1928). The prolific mentor.
Konstantīns Pēkšēns stands as a pillar of Latvian architecture, shaping Riga’s cityscape across both the eclectic and art nouveau periods. Born in Mazsalaca Parish in 1859, he moved to Riga as a child and trained at the Rīga Polytechnic Institute, graduating in 1885. After working with Latvia’s first professional architect, Jānis Frīdrihs Baumanis, Pēkšēns opened his own practice and quickly became a prolific designer.
Pēkšēns created at least 250 multi-storey masonry buildings and over 110 wooden houses in Rīga, mastering not only design but also the technical and organisational aspects of architecture. He was deeply involved in Rīga’s civic life, serving as a city councillor and participating in professional and social organisations. His work spans from late 19th-century eclecticism to the jewels of early 20th-century art nouveau, and his former residence at Alberta iela 12 now houses the Rīga Art Nouveau Museum.
Third master, Eižens Laube (1880–1967). The national romanticist.
Eižens Laube was a leading architect, theorist, and educator whose work helped define the national romantic style within Rīga’s art nouveau movement. Born in Rīga in 1880, Laube began his career in the office of Konstantīns Pēkšēns and graduated from Riga Polytechnic Institute in 1907. He travelled to Germany and France for further study, absorbing influences that he would later blend with Latvian folk motifs.
Laube designed more than 200 buildings, including the adaptation of Rīga Castle as the presidential residence and landmarks such as the Hotel Ķemeri in Jūrmala. Do listen to my podcast, ‘On Ķemeri’. After Latvia’s independence, he became a favourite of President Kārlis Ulmanis and was instrumental in shaping the city’s new face. Laube served as dean of the architecture faculty at the University of Latvia and founded the journal Latvijas Architektūra. Fleeing the Soviet advance in 1944, he lived in exile in Germany and later the United States, where he died in Portland in 1967.
And fourth master, Aleksandrs Vanags (1873–1919). The martyr of modernism.
Aleksandrs Vanags was a prolific architect whose career was tragically cut short during the political upheavals of 1919. Born in 1873, he studied civil engineering and architecture at Rīga Technical Institute but never completed his degree. Nonetheless, he secured a permit to practice and worked with Konstantīns Pēkšēns before opening his own office.
Vanags designed around 70 multi-storey apartment buildings in Rīga, many of which are in the national romantic style, as well as several churches. His buildings are known for their innovative layouts, maximising sunlight and space, and for their facades that blend folk motifs, geometric ornament, and even influences from Finnish and Egyptian architecture. During World War I, Vanags worked for the Russian army’s road department and later helped organise a Latvian art exhibition in Berlin. Returning to Rīga in 1919, he was arrested and executed during the Red Terror for alleged counter-revolutionary activities, leaving behind a significant and diverse architectural legacy.
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What to see and do: a visitor's guide
So you are in Rīga and want to explore the city’s art nouveau heritage. Start with Alberta iela, not far - a ten-minute walk - from the old town centre in what is called the ‘Quiet Centre’ district. This is the pearl of Rīga’s art nouveau style, where historic buildings line the entire street. Eight of the buildings on Alberta iela have been recognised as architectural monuments of national significance, and most were built in a relatively short time, from 1901 to 1908.
Next, walk along Strēlnieku iela and Elizabetes iela in the Embassy district, which features magnificent creations by Eisenstein and other architects. These three streets have the highest concentration of art nouveau buildings, making them a great choice if you have limited time. If you have more time, consider exploring the art nouveau buildings on Audēju iela, Brīvības iela, Ģertrūdes iela, Krišjāņa Barona iela, Valdemara iela and Aleksandra Čaka iela. If you are up for it, jump on the train from Rīga central station to Ķemeri and find Laube’s ‘white ship’.
When walking around Rīga, remember to look UP to appreciate the decorative elements fully. Look for ornate entrances, building facades with elaborate motifs, female figurines - many half-naked, painted flora, twisted braids, masks, and mythological figures. I strongly recommend that you visit the Art Nouveau Centre on the corner of Alberta iela, which offers an authentic recreation of a typical Rīga art nouveau apartment from the early 20th century within its museum.
If you like a challenge, try to find as many laughing face art nouveau sculptural forms as you can on building facades. Do take pictures, the faces are fun!
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The building that houses the Rīga Art Nouveau Museum is located at Alberta iela 12, although the entrance is just around the corner on Strēlnieku iela. You need to push the entry code to get through the front door. It was constructed in 1903 as the private residence of the renowned Latvian architect Konstantīns Pēkšēns, who designed it in collaboration with Eižens Laube. The façade of this monumental building boasts ornamental reliefs with stylised motifs of plants and animals from Latvia. This style has also been used in the interior design. The impressive spiral staircase with ornamental ceiling paintings is one of the most magnificent masterpieces in Rīga. These paintings were created by the prominent Latvian artist Jānis Rozentāls, a leading figure in Latvian art who made significant contributions to the art nouveau movement in Riga.
The museum features the authentic interior of an art nouveau apartment that captures the essence of the style, from the layout of the rooms, original wall paintings, and furnishings, to the tableware, artwork, clocks, clothing, embroidery, and other household items. An interactive digital exhibition in the basement tells the story of art nouveau architecture and design in Rīga.
I visited the museum. It is lovely! This is a description of the art nouveau apartment rooms that you can view.
The sitting room is the central presentation space of the apartment, where hosts receive guests, drink tea, discuss opera and politics, and share the latest fashion trends in Paris and what's new in Rīga. Activities in the sitting room would include listening to music, singing and sometimes even dancing. The authentic interior of 1903 has been renovated in the room. Walls are painted the same blue as they were before. The finish of the sitting room features floral elements inspired by Latvian nature. An ornamental frieze with daisy motifs is located on the upper part of the walls. The most splendid feature is the ceiling, a stucco decoration with elements of daisy blossoms, as well as a band of ornamental painting. An interesting feature of the room is the bay window. It is separated from the room by a wooden decor in the art nouveau style. I remember having a similar bay window conservatory in my apartment on Elizabetes iela, which I also filled with houseplants. Authentic art nouveau items, all originally used in Riga, have been placed in the room.
Next is the fireplace room, which is situated in the representative part of the apartment. It is a place where hosts and guests would gather around the log fire, sipping wine, and having a chat. There is a beautiful gramophone in this small room, along with a chessboard. Walls are painted the original green of the 1903 interior. The finish of the fireplace room features floral elements inspired by the diversity of trees in Rīga. An ornamental frieze featuring chestnut leaf motifs is located on the upper part of the walls, and the ceiling is adorned with stucco decoration. The items in the room are all original.
The dining room is the most luxurious room in the apartment, where dinner with friends and everyday meals with family were often held. Eating was quite a formal occasion in 1903 Latvia, even if it was just with immediate family. Mind your manners! The paintings, wooden spruce panels on the walls and pinewood beams on the ceiling have been renovated.
Next is the bedroom, where the apartment owners enjoyed their peace after a day of hard work. The 1903 interior of the room has been restored. The reddish-brown tone of the walls has been reapplied, and the room resonates with peace and quiet. The wall is divided into two sections – one darker, one lighter. The lighter tone is covered with stencilled images of wreaths of roses. The rose was one of the most popular elements in art nouveau interior design in Rīga. Roses and wreaths of roses are often sung about in Latvian folk songs.
An apartment has to have a kitchen. No Deliveroo or Bolt Food deliveries in 1903! This is where the maid worked. Innovations included refrigerators, modern stoves, and cast iron sinks with water taps. The 1903 interior of the kitchen has been restored, with white and blue tiles alongside the stove. Check the larder - open the door - for recognisable products, and test your Latvian language skills on the named spice jars!
Having a maid was a key element in the lives of people from richer society. Her room was usually by the kitchen, small and poorly lit. The room typically had only the essentials: a bed, a wardrobe, and a sewing machine. Apart from cooking, cleaning, and mending clothes, the maid often served as a security guard as well, because the kitchen was normally located by the back stairs. Which reminds me, the security guard at my apartment in the late 1990s had a pistol. The wild east was a term used to describe the number of guns at that time. Don’t worry - that is no longer the case today!
In the early 20th century, the bathroom became an increasingly important part of the home as people became more concerned about hygiene, and an enamelled cast-iron bathtub was a symbol of freshness and cleanliness. The interior in the bathroom is authentic and dates back to the early 20th century. Check the floor tiles from Villeroy & Bosch. A proper flush toilet in the lavatory became a necessity in a 1903 Rīga apartment. Although I was thinking that you need to be tall to pull the flush chain in this apartment.
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10.00 to 18.00.
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Rīga’s art nouveau heritage is a significant and magnificent contribution to history. It deserves to be better known worldwide. For a small city of around 600,000 people, Rīga has the highest concentration of art nouveau buildings in the world. These architectural treasures survived years of Soviet control and two World Wars and now enjoy UNESCO World Heritage status.
The art nouveau buildings were one of the first highlights for me when I arrived to work in Rīga in 1996. Now, nearly 30 years later, I still enjoy slowly walking along Elizabetes and Alberta streets, with my head looking upwards. I have loads of pictures of the facades. Go see these magnificent buildings for yourselves, if you can.
[Illustration of an art nouveau building in Riga by An Englishman in Latvia. Music ‘art nouveau’ from Pixabay]
