An Englishman in Latvia
An Englishman in Latvia
On beer
Latvia is a country of beer brewing and drinking. It has a rich history of beer-related tales, dating back to medieval times, through the economic development of Latvia by German nobility, and then the dark times under Soviet occupation. Latvia now boasts a vibrant craft beer brewing scene, with over 300 different craft beers available in Rīga alone. Join me as we go on a beer tour of Latvia!
Thanks for listening!
On beer
Latvia is a country of beer brewing and drinking. The identity of a nation is strongly influenced by its food and drink. It has a rich history of beer-related tales, dating back to medieval times, through the economic development of Latvia by German nobility, and then the dark times under Soviet occupation. Latvia now boasts a vibrant craft beer brewing scene, with over 300 different craft beers available in Rīga alone. Join me as we go on a beer tour of Latvia!
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When German crusaders conquered Livonia in the 13th century, beer was already well-established among the Latvian tribes. The Ancient Balts brewed low-strength beer for daily life and festivals; the Latvian word for beer, alus, shares roots with the English word ale. It should not be confused with other similar alcoholic drinks: mead or miestiņš in Latvian, made from honey, or medalus, where honey is added to beer. All three were known to ancient Latvians. However, forest clearing reduced the number of wild beehives, and honey scarcity prompted brewing to shift towards grain.
The German conquerors introduced Western European brewing techniques, which were primarily developed in monasteries. Beer was brewed in Livonia’s castles - do listen to my podcasts On Sigulda, On Cēsis and On Castles and Invaders. Beer was fermented and stored in barrels, enabling more efficient transport, cultivated hops replaced herb mixes, and beer was considered a valuable commodity. This caused a bit of friction. The Large and Small Medieval Guilds in 14th-century Rīga quarrelled over the rights to brew beer. However, there is a tale of Rīga’s craftsmen at one guild consuming an entire ox and 22 barrels of beer, with the guild elder ordering all remaining beer to be finished by dawn on pain of fines!
There was even a Beer Porters Guild in Rīga, as it required two porters to carry a beer barrel slung from a beam from a brew house to the taverns where the German estate owners sold the beer. These taverns were often situated at crossroads on major road intersections. They consisted of a large public room for locals and a smaller one for the landed class, and provided lodgings and food for travellers as well as a community function. The word pub derives from these public houses. Despite the close association with the German landowning nobility, most tavern owners were Latvian.
Despite the German conquerors bringing Christianity, Latvia was a pagan country. An interesting tale. In 1610, during a severe drought, a Jesuit priest described villagers sacrificing a black calf, a black ram, and a rooster, and pouring beer on the fire to beg Pērkons (Thunder) for rain. A glimpse of beer’s ritual tradition in rural life.
Another tale that has been repeated across Europe. Taverns became dens for activists. Over a beer or two, plans were hatched to change the hierarchical structure of society. The leaders of the 1802 Peasant Uprising in Kauguri plotted over a tankard of beer in a tavern at Brenguļi. The ideals of the National Awakening, 1860 - 1918, were discussed at taverns throughout Latvia. Taverns also served as venues for musicians, choir rehearsals and theatre performances. In the purges that followed the 1905 Russian Revolution and in retribution for attacks on their manors, the German gentry demolished many taverns that were used as meeting places for revolutionaries. By then, many estates had already shifted production from beer to spirits, which was far more profitable.
With the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century, large mechanised breweries were established, particularly in Rīga. These replaced the small country estate breweries and could brew greater volumes of beer, more cheaply and with higher quality. With the expansion of the rail network, beer from Rīga was even exported to other countries.
Kimmel was the first industrial brewery, founded in Rīga in 1815. In 1924, Kimmel was Latvia’s largest brewery, and it continued to operate until 2007, after production had been relocated to Adaži in 2002. Its original building is still standing in Rīga on Bruņinieku iela. The Waldschlossen Brewery was established in 1865 in a suburb of Rīga, and was technically advanced on a European scale. Waldschlossen Brewery shut down during World War I. Still, it was restored in 1937 as Aldaris when President Kārlis Ulmanis forced breweries to amalgamate, breaking up a cartel that had kept beer prices artificially high. Today, Aldaris is Latvia’s largest beer maker, producing 40% of Latvia’s beer output. I have my doubts about whether it is still popular in Latvia. In the 1990s, when I served as a British diplomat in Latvia, Aldaris Zelta beer was served everywhere. The name is associated with beer and pubs from that era in my mind. Nowadays, it is very unusual to see a Latvian drinking Aldaris beer. It is regarded as a cheap, mass-produced brand. Maybe most of the production today is exported.
The Soviet occupation was a dark era for Latvia in many ways. Beer included. Nationalisation resulted in low-quality, under-carbonated, mass-produced beer. When I lived in Moscow in the 1980s, I couldn’t remember ever tasting a beer made in the Soviet Union that was any good. All the foreigners there drank imported beer. However, there was an exception. The Tērvetes kolhoz, a collective, brewed using its own barley from 1971. Tērvetes still uses 75% local products in its brewing. Lāčplēša (a Liepāja brewery) and Bauskas (from Bauska, of course) are other collectives that have survived. During this period, people also brewed their own beer at home. My wife was telling me that her father used to grow hops on their land near Ainaži to make his own beer.
With Latvia regaining independence in 1990, the big breweries were privatised. Multinational companies acquired the biggest. Aldaris by the Danish Carlsberg, Cēsu by the Finnish Olvi, and Lāčplēša by the Danish Royal Unibrew. That’s the big three breweries in Latvia. However, the most significant development for beer lovers was the emergence of the craft scene in the 2000s. Užavas, now located in Ventspils but originally a cult microbrewery from Užava, then Valmiermuiža from Valmiera, naturally. Both are favourites of mine and I will invariably choose either when offered in a cafe or restaurant. Both have very good no alcohol beers, by the way. I personally never drink any alcohol when I know I need to drive. Oh, unlike most Latvian car owners, I prefer public transport anyway when travelling within Rīga or to Jūrmala. Public transport is excellent in Rīga. The craft scene further developed with small brewpubs like Labietis. I am reminded of my local microbrewery in Long Melford in Suffolk, England, called Nethergate. They are also doing well and expanding their Tap Room pub.
Beer remains a substantial consumer category in Latvia. The craft beer segment has been one of the fastest‑growing niches in recent years. Eurostat data shows Latvian breweries produced 74.5 million litres of beer in 2024. Less than neighbours Lithuania with 305 million litres of beer and Estonia with 109 million litres. Latvians will say that the quality of the beer is what matters.
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Short stories of three craft breweries.
First up is Valmiermuiža. An independent craft brewery with a strong hospitality arm rooted in the Valmiermuiža manor near Valmiera. Although when I visited its restaurant in Valmiera one lunchtime, its staff said they had worked enough that day and were no longer serving. A very Soviet attitude. I forgive them as the beer tastes good. Their philosophy is to brew slowly, unpasteurised live beer with a heritage and a focus on Latvian ingredients. This modern brewery was established in the late 2000s by entrepreneur Aigars Ruņģis and positioned as a revival of the historic tavern/manor brewing ethos. They offer classic lagers: Amber/helles, pils, and dunkel (tumšais, in Latvian). Which is what most brewers in Latvia offer. What is excellent about Valmiermuža is the seasonal offering of pale ales and porters labelled Kokmuiža or its special releases. I’m drinking one at the moment called Shôyu. This wheat beer was specially created for a Michelin-recognised Japanese restaurant in Rīga to pair with their ramen, featuring a crisp sip and hints of coriander and orange zest. The restaurant is called Shōyu, of course! In my humble opinion, Valmiermuža beers go particularly well with traditional Latvian food like pork Karbonāda or chicken Kotletes. Valmiermuža bridges Latvia’s historical brewing identity with contemporary craft and culinary culture.
Next is Labietis, which was founded in 2013 in Rīga by Reinis Pļaviņš and Edgars Melnis. It emerged from a circle of home brewers who wanted to reinterpret Baltic brewing through local ingredients and folklore. The brewery positions itself as a pioneer of Latvia’s modern craft movement, with an open‑brewpub model where the process is visible to guests and the brand ethos is summed up as “Pagan Brews”. Labietis’ concept draws on pre-Christian Latvian cultural motifs and the wider Baltic region’s fermentation history, using locally foraged or sourced botanicals alongside grains and hops to create beers, meads, and braggots with a distinct sense of place. The name “Labietis” references a warrior figure in pre‑Christian Latvian society. The founders describe their approach as one that embraces what grows around them—yarrow, meadowsweet, linden blossoms, juniper, berries, and honey.
Since its inception, Labietis has brewed with more than 20 local medicinal plants, over 10 Latvian berries and fruits, and Latvian barley, wheat, or rye malts. They also use imported hops when desired, but often infuse herbs via a large hopback for gentle extraction. Considered one of the first modern craft breweries in Latvia to centre Baltic botanicals and folklore explicitly, Labietis helped broaden the country’s palate beyond post‑Soviet lager norms, influencing how Latvian terroir, the distinctive quality imparted by the climate and soil, shows up in contemporary brewing. The founders have framed Labietis as a conversation between place, history, and modern brewing craft.
Third up. Užavas is a family-run Latvian brewery founded in 1994 in the village of Užava, just south of Ventspils. It was born in the first years after independence was regained with a simple promise: brew classic, living beer the traditional way from four natural ingredients and exceptionally pure local water. The story begins at the owner’s home, where a small house-brewery quickly outgrew demand, leading to the establishment of a dedicated site in 2000. The brewery expanded again in 2008 when it relocated to Ventspils. It quickly became a word-of-mouth staple beyond its small coastal origins, creating loyalty that has lasted through trends. A cult-like status. This reputation rests on three pillars: origin, timing - 1994, when reliable quality lager was scarce; a simple, consistent recipe ethos of four ingredients and glass bottles; and a distinctive place-based water profile from an 89-meter aquifer that locals credit for its smooth, balanced taste. Visitors today find a straightforward, quality-first operation that brews light and dark lagers unhurried and unpasteurised.
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A beer tour in Rīga. Please don’t drive or use electric scooters if drinking. Although the tour covers 3 km, I will offer public transport options. Or walk if it is a nice day. It is best to start the tour in the afternoon or early evening, as some venues in the second half of the tour only open late afternoon. And you don’t have to complete the tour. Take your pick and above all, enjoy the craft beer.
From the centre of Riga, take the number 11 tram to stop Dzemdību nams or make the 37-minute walk to the Rīga Beer District, the former home of Kimmel, Kunzendorf and Stritzky breweries. Although these companies have not survived, their premises have been repurposed for modern beer drinking tastes. First stop is Valmiermuža’s Beer Embassy in the former Stritzky Brewery. The address is Aristida Briāna iela 9a. Valmiermuža, as you already know, has grown from a small manor-based brewery in northern Latvia to the best-known craft brewer. This has a lovely wooden, slightly rustic interior. Beer bottles and a long array of beer taps surround you. They also sell deli products, and you can nibble while you drink at the tables. It’s fine to buy beer to take away. The glasses are distinctive, too. Buy one, but don’t nick it as a souvenir! There are 24 beers on tap and more than 200 different bottled beers.
Next stop is a very short hop to Labietis, also in the former Stritzky Brewery. This taproom used to brew on location but moved its production to Elmuri, north of Rīga. However, the bar remains a great experience, with its brick, stone, and wood interior. There is also a very rustic outdoor seating area. Labietis glasses are also distinct with the Labietis warrior motif. Another great souvenir. 16 beers on tap and 44 bottled beers.
A short three-minute walk will take you to location number three: Walters & Grapa, located at Miera iela 41. Please note that this venue is only open in the evenings from 6 pm to 1.30 am and even 3 am at weekends. Here you can sample not only Latvian craft beers but also Lithuanian ones. The interior of the bar is inspired by the characters from the century-old Rīga Puppet Theatre and is cosy and somewhat trendy. DJs spin the tunes during the evening. Eight beers on tap and 42 bottled beers.
Head back to the Dzemdību nams stop and catch the 5 or 25 trolleybus to the E. Melngaiļa iela stop, heading back to the city centre. Or it’s a 15-minute walk to location number four: Kaņepes Kultūras centrs for a bit of culture with a beer. The address is Skolas iela 15. The venue hosts events, artistic experiments, and welcomes chatter. The building is over a century old, having previously been a social centre for Baltic German and Russian nobility. During Latvia’s first period of independence in the 1930s, it was a bohemian hub. During the Soviet occupation, it was used by students of the Art Academy of Latvia and the Jāzeps Mediņš Music School. It still has a great art and music vibe. Six beers on tap and 18 bottled beers.
Location number 5 is Lofts on Matīsa iela 8. Another evening venue, open from 5 pm. Take bus 3 or 16, or trolleybus 4, 31, or 34 between Ģertrūdes iela and Matīsa iela stops. Or a 14-minute walk. Lofts features numerous bar stools and tables around a fireplace, as well as a lovely terrace in the summer. They have 11 beers on tap and more than 40 bottled beers.
If you are still going strong, location number 6 is Alus Rūme Trofeja on Avotu iela 74. Additionally, it is only open in the evenings, from 4 pm on weekends and 5 pm on weekdays. Take bus 50 between Stabu iela and Matīsa iela stops. Or a 16-minute walk. Trofeja, a brewpub, is the smallest brewery in Latvia with a brewing kettle of 170 litres. They have eight beers on tap at any time, with selections changing seasonally.
And finally, location number 7 is Nurme, located at Vagonu iela 21. The best way to get there is an eight-minute walk via Lienes iela. It opens from 4 pm every day. Nurme is both a brewery and a taproom, located just a short walk from each other. You can try the beers at both! The bar features five taps and 50 different bottled beers, while the brewery offers seven beers fresh from the kettles. The Nurme glasses have a distinctive shape, with no stem and a wide base.
Well done if you visited all seven locations on the tour!
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Latvia has a long history of beer brewing, influenced by the countries that have conquered or occupied it over the years. However, it is the recent craft beer scene that is really exciting. Whether you live in or visit Latvia, make time to relax and enjoy some of Latvia's local beers. Sensibly, of course. And if you live in another country, find some of the Latvian beers I have recommended. Priekā - cheers!
[Image of Latvian beers and glasses by An Englishman in Latvia. Music by Koi Discovery from Pixabay. Sound effects from Pixabay]
