An Englishman in Latvia
I first lived in Latvia as a diplomat from 1996-99, a few years after Latvia regained independence from the crumbling Soviet Union. I returned to live in Latvia in 2022. This storytelling podcast combines history, culture and tourism together with my personal anecdotes.
An Englishman in Latvia
On Rīga's Soviet microdistricts
Rīga's pre-fabricated apartment blocks built during the Soviet occupation represent a significant urban planning project. The 13 microdistricts on the city outskirts were not merely housing solutions but comprehensive attempts to create new forms of socialist urban living. Join me as we delve into the history of these microdistricts, find out what it was like to live there during the Soviet era, and take a walk around present-day Imanta, where I live.
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On Rīga’s Soviet microdistricts
The pre-fabricated apartment blocks built during the Soviet occupation on the outskirts of Rīga represent one of the most significant urban planning projects in the city’s modern history. These developments, including districts like Imanta - where I live, fundamentally transformed Rīga from a traditional European city into a sprawling metropolitan area that housed nearly one million inhabitants by the late 1980s. The 13 Soviet microdistricts (mikrorajoni in Latvian) were not merely housing solutions but comprehensive attempts to create new forms of socialist urban living. They are not ghettos!
Join me as we delve into the history of these microdistricts, find out what it was like to live there during the Soviet era, and take a walk around present-day Imanta.
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The history of Rīga’s microdistricts
The construction of these microdistrict housing areas was driven by an unprecedented population boom. Rīga’s population grew dramatically from just 261,000 in September 1945 to 656,000 by January 1965, and eventually exceeded 900,000 by 1987. This massive growth was primarily due to immigration from other parts of the Soviet Union, mainly present-day Russia, as Soviet industrialisation policies required large workforces to staff new factories and military installations.
The housing shortage became so acute that by 1989, there were 77,000 families (over 200,000 people) registered in Rīga’s apartment waiting queue. This crisis necessitated rapid, large-scale construction methods that could accommodate the influx of workers, Soviet Army officers, and administrative personnel arriving from across the Soviet Union.
Soviet urban planners developed microdistricts as self-contained residential areas, each designed to house 5,000 to 10,000 inhabitants. These districts were comprehensively planned for communities, including not just housing but all necessary infrastructure within walking distance. According to Soviet construction standards, all public facilities had to be within a 500-metre radius of any dwelling.
Each microdistrict was designed to include:
• Residential apartment buildings (typically 5-9 stories)
• Primary and secondary schools
• Kindergartens and nurseries
• Grocery shops
• Healthcare facilities
• Cultural facilities, like clubs, cinemas, and libraries
• Playgrounds and recreational areas, and
• Building maintenance offices.
Major roads were specifically designed not to cross microdistrict territories, but to go around them. This created pedestrian-friendly environments with an emphasis on public transportation connections to other parts of the city.
I live in Imanta, on the outskirts of Rīga, not far from the airport. Imanta was one of the 13 microdistricts of Rīga. Its systematic development began in 1967 when architects Raitis Lelis, Ruta Paikune, Ruta Dzene, and Laimonis Stīpnieks created a comprehensive construction plan. The district was built in stages following a distinctive fan-shaped layout that encircled the park around the former Anninmuiža estate. You can easily see the fan shape when looking at a road map of Rīga. Construction proceeded through five phases: Imanta-1 and Imanta-2 were built in the late 1960s and early 1970s in the northwestern section, followed by three additional districts that completed the fan-shaped design. The area was strategically chosen for its excellent rail connections - the Imanta station (originally called “Zolitūde”) had existed since 1894, providing easy access to central Riga. Fifteen minutes by train nowadays. What makes Imanta unique among Riga’s microdistricts is its mixed character, combining pre-war development from the 1920s-1930s with Soviet-era apartment blocks. The Imanta housing cooperative had built two-story family houses around Kooperatīva iela in the early 1930s, creating an unusual juxtaposition where Soviet five-story apartment buildings coexist with small private houses featuring cosy gardens.
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Construction Methods and Building Types
The Soviet approach to mass housing relied heavily on industrialised prefabricated construction methods using concrete panels. This system allowed for unprecedented speed - some buildings could be erected in just two weeks, and at peak production, 2.2 million housing units were being built annually across the Soviet Union.
Between 1958 and 1990, thirteen major microdistricts were constructed around Rīga: Āgenskalna Priedes, Jugla, Ķengarags, Purvciems, Pļavnieki, Mežciems, Imanta, Zolitūde, Ziepniekkalns, Sarkandaugava, Bolderāja, Iļģuciems, and Vecmīlgrāvis. These developments housed approximately 485,000 people with an average density of 163 inhabitants per hectare.
This construction created what was effectively a “second Rīga” as these Soviet new-builds fundamentally altered the city’s character and scale. The microdistricts were always built further and further out from old parts of the city, creating the characteristic sprawling pattern of Soviet urban development.
Let’s do a building spotter’s guide to Soviet microdistrict blocks!
First is the Khruschevka Period in the early 1960s.
The earliest Soviet apartment buildings in Rīga were Khrushchovkas - typically five-story structures built with sand-lime bricks or prefabricated concrete panels. These buildings, representing series 316 and 318, were recognisable by their white silicate brick facades, often with red brick accents. Āgenskalna Priedes, built in the early 1960s, was composed entirely of these Khrushchyovka buildings and became Riga’s first microdistrict. My wife used to own an apartment in a Khrushchovka!
Next came the Brezhnevka Era in the 1960s and 1970s.
Brezhnev-era buildings (Brezhnevkas) featured improvements over Khrushchovkas, including larger windows, higher ceilings (2.65-2.7 metres), separate bathrooms, and better sound insulation. These five-story buildings were concentrated in districts like Ķengarags, Purvciems, Teika, Āgenskalns, and Jugla, but notably were not built in Imanta.
Next were the most common building type in Rīga - the Series 602. Nine-story panel buildings with load-bearing structures made from lightweight aggregate concrete wall panels and reinforced concrete slabs. Built from the mid-1970s to early 1980s, these buildings are mainly located in Purvciems, Mežciems, Imanta, Pļavnieki, Ziepniekkalns, Vecmīlgrāvis, and Iļģuciems. The first Series 602 building was constructed in 1967 on the corner of Vaidavas and Dzelzavas streets in Rīga, if you fancy finding it.
The Soviet microdistricts represented an attempt to implement modernist urban planning principles on a massive scale. The planning philosophy emphasised functionality over aesthetics, with standardised apartment layouts and repeated building designs creating uniform residential environments.
Despite criticism for their “lack of character and low quality,” these buildings fulfilled their primary purpose of providing mass, affordable housing and remain in high demand today. In fact, Soviet-era apartment buildings remain the most popular choice among buyers in Rīga and Pierīga, accounting for 53% of all property transactions.
Today, these districts face significant challenges. More than 70% of Latvian urban residential buildings were constructed during Soviet times, creating what experts describe as a “ticking time bomb” of ageing infrastructure. Recent studies indicate that buildings of Series 602 are generally in satisfactory technical condition and safe for living, though some require attention to roof structures and balconies.
The privatisation process that began in 1995 transformed these formerly state-owned buildings into privately owned apartments. However, only about 20% of buildings have established proper apartment owners’ associations for building management, compared to over 90% in Estonia and Lithuania.
The microdistrict of Imanta thus represents both the ambitions and limitations of Soviet urban planning - massive undertakings that successfully housed hundreds of thousands of people but created urban environments that continue to evolve and face new challenges in the post-Soviet era. These districts remain integral parts of Rīga’s urban fabric, housing substantial portions of the city’s population while adapting to contemporary needs and market conditions.
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15-minute cities
The Soviet urban planning concept for the microdistricts is, in fact, a European one. It stems from the 1902 published work of Ebenezer Howard in his ‘Garden Cities of Tomorrow’ and was the concept behind the creation of Mežaparks in the early 1900s under Rīga's Mayor, George Armitstead. Mežaparks was the first garden city in the world, just! Do listen to my episodes ‘On Mežaparks’ and ‘On George Armitstead’.
An extension of this early concept is the 15-minute city - an urban planning model where everything a resident needs in their daily life can be accessed within a 15-minute walk or bike ride. Rather than making an entire city traversable in 15 minutes, it instead means designing local areas that have everything residents need within this distance. This human-centric design concept aims to reduce car use, promote walking, cycling, and public transport, and emphasise features like green and public spaces.
The town of Poundbury in Dorset, England, built in 1994 and championed by King Charles III, can be seen as an early incarnation of a 15-minute neighbourhood, with its design intended to allow easy, local access to amenities and facilities. This was supported through new urbanism ideas like the compact city, and by many of the recommendations arising from ‘Towards an Urban Renaissance’ led by the British architect Sir Richard Rogers in 1999.
The 15-minute model was revived in 2016 by scientist and business professor Carlos Moreno (who is also Paris City Hall’s special envoy for smart cities). In 2021, Carlos Moreno further developed his concept in an article where he listed the six essential functions residents should have access to within a 15-minute journey of their home:
- Living
- Working
- Commerce
- Healthcare
- Education, and
- Entertainment.
Today, it’s being put into practice by many urban planners in cities across the world. Paris, Melbourne, Ottawa, Barcelona, Shanghai, Portland, Milan, Bogotá and other cities use this planning concept. However, it has been controversial with conspiracy theorists and libertarians claiming it is intended to stop car use.
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What was daily life like in Rīga’s microdistricts during Soviet times?
Before the microdistricts were built, many Rīga residents lived in communal apartments (called kommunalkas) where 7-10 families shared a single kitchen and bathroom. As one resident described it: “It is such a burden when all of your personal life is exposed, open to strangers’ eyes and ears”. These shared kitchens became war zones during the Stalin era, where neighbours reported on each other and padlocked their food cabinets. Families cooked in quick, staggered shifts in the communal kitchens, then carried their pots to their rooms to eat. Food was never left unattended in shared kitchens, and when refrigerators appeared, they became symbols of luxury.
In the new microdistrict apartments, families gathered around large tables that served multiple purposes: meals, homework, ironing, and socialising. These tables became symbols of domestic comfort.
The writer Andris Kolbergs captured the ethnic tensions in 1980s Rīga perfectly: “Most often such conflicts arose in flats where the owners were deprived of some of their own rooms and forced to make space [for the newcomers]. Many of them had happily resided in their flats for decades… and there suddenly comes somebody who, out of ignorance, ruins and breaks [things]”. One retired Soviet officer complained about Latvian pre-war construction: “What jerks, they do not know how to build houses! The ceiling is so high, who can heat such a flat in winter?” while the original owner watched helplessly as “this derevnya [Russian slang for people from ‘the sticks’] has pulled off again! They are scrubbing the parquet with a brush and water – it is ruined now!”.
Residents gave colourful nicknames to Soviet buildings. The supermarket building on what is now Kleistu iela 9 in Imanta was called a “mausoleum” because of its distinctive appearance. These folk names reflected how residents personalised their otherwise standardised environment, creating a sense of community and identity despite the imposed uniformity.
Soviet microdistricts featured distinctive space-themed playgrounds with rocket slides, globe-shaped climbers, spaceships, and cosmic roundabouts. As one Reddit user nostalgically recalled: “That ‘globe’ was probably the best type of Soviet playground equipment. We spent hours on it as kids. And it looked and felt so big!”. Children from different apartments spent entire days playing together in these communal courtyards. As one person remembered: “My mom lived in a neighbourhood like this as a child, and there was even a forest right next to it. They could play with all the other kids all day long.. When they moved to a house, she was miserable”. The building layout, consisting of three or four apartment blocks around a grass square with a playground, was intentionally designed so parents could look out of their windows to check on children playing below.
Queuing became a central part of life in Soviet microdistricts. People would join any line they saw forming on the street, because a queue meant the shop must have some new goods. One resident’s story about buying trainers illustrates the absurdity: “Spring 1987. Imported trainers were shipped… I got a place in the line, somewhere in the seventh hundreds. I went twice to have my name on the list confirmed. After a day of standing in line, I moved forward by about 300 places. In the end, I ended up without any trainers”.
Moscow residents became “meat tourists,” travelling up to 100 miles to shop in better-stocked stores. This inspired the famous Soviet joke: “What is green, long and smells of sausage? A tram from Moscow”. A joke with much cultural context! It would have been the same in Rīga when it was part of the Soviet Union. When I lived in Moscow during the 1980s, I did the Muscovite thing: always having a collapsible orange string bag in my pocket, wherever I went. One day, there might be a particular product in a shop, often stacked high in the window. You had to buy it there and then, because the product would invariably be sold out within a day. Despite taking practically no space in a pocket, this orange bag would expand to hold fruit or whatever foodstuffs you had purchased. I have looked everywhere for a similar bag. Not sold on Amazon! My packable Waitrose supermarket one just isn’t as good.
When families finally got their own private kitchens in the microdistricts, these small spaces became the heart of family life and political discussion. Unlike the dangerous communal kitchens where neighbours eavesdropped for anti-Party sentiment, the new private kitchens offered families their first truly private space in decades. The kitchens had strict regulations: they required windows and doors, couldn’t be combined with other rooms (except for rare ‘electric kitchenettes’), and were sized according to the apartment’s size. Yet these regulated spaces became the heart of urban homes and hubs for counter-Soviet thinking.
Despite the standardised appearance, Soviet architects took pride in arranging prototype buildings in agreeable patterns, laying out service networks, and designing external finishes. Local architects fought to maintain Latvian identity - Rīga’s microdistricts were named after the forests, marshes, pines, meadows, shores, and villages they replaced rather than important Soviets or historical events.
The old Soviet-built microdistricts are very green, with countless mature trees. Unlike the stark appearance of some modern developments, original Soviet planning emphasised integration with nature, orchards, and ponds to maximise a positive effect on everyday life. The architects calculated optimal distances between homes and services, laying out the most convenient paths between them.
A Czech student living in Rīga described the aesthetic appeal: “I grew up in Soviet apartments, and you know, they aren’t what you think they are. They’re not depressing. There’s an aesthetic to them, an experience I can’t quite explain… they’re nice, actually. My friends and I liked where we lived - we saw each other often, did things together”.
These stories reveal life in these Soviet microdistricts as complex social spaces where standardised architecture coexisted with vibrant community life, where state control met human ingenuity, and where the mundane challenges of daily life created lasting memories and relationships. The Imanta of the 1970s and 1980s was a place where children dreamed of space travel on cosmic playgrounds. At the same time, their parents navigated the delicate politics of neighbour relations and the eternal Soviet quest for scarce goods.
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Irony of Fate, a Soviet film
Our story begins on New Year’s Eve in Moscow with Zhenya Lukashin, a modest surgeon in his thirties who lives with his mother. Like many Soviet men of his generation, Zhenya is caught in the predictable patterns of life - he’s engaged to Galya, a perfectly suitable match, though their relationship lacks genuine passion. Following an annual tradition, Zhenya meets his close friends at a banya - a traditional Russian bathhouse - to celebrate both the New Year and his upcoming wedding.
What should have been a simple celebration turns into a comedy of errors when the friends drink far too much vodka while toasting Zhenya’s future. One of the group, Pavlik, is supposed to catch a flight to Leningrad that evening. Still, in their intoxicated state, the friends accidentally put the unconscious Zhenya on the plane instead. Zhenya sleeps through the entire flight, utterly unaware that he’s travelling to the wrong city.
Here’s where the film’s brilliant social commentary comes into play. Upon arriving in Leningrad, still heavily drunk, Zhenya stumbles into a taxi and gives his home address: “Apartment 12, Building 25, Third Builder’s Street”. The taxi driver takes him there without question - because this exact address exists in Leningrad too. This isn’t a coincidence; it’s the result of Soviet central planning that created identical street names, identical apartment buildings, and even similar locks across the entire Soviet Union.
Zhenya arrives at what appears to be his apartment building - it looks exactly like his Moscow home because it was built from the same prefabricated panels. He takes the elevator to the same floor, walks to the same apartment number, and his key fits the lock. The furniture arrangement is nearly identical, and the wallpaper is similar— everything feels familiar because these mass-produced apartments were designed to be interchangeable.
Zhenya collapses into bed, only to be awakened hours later by the apartment’s actual owner: Nadya Shevelyova, a teacher who’s equally trapped in her own predictable life. She’s engaged to Ippolit, a pompous, controlling man who represents everything suffocating about conventional Soviet society. Nadya’s initial anger at finding a stranger in her bed gradually transforms into curiosity as she realises this bizarre situation might be exactly what both of them needed.
What follows is a magical New Year’s Eve where two lonely souls discover they have more in common than just their identical living situations. Through conversations that stretch deep into the night, accompanied by guitar songs and shared confessions, Zhenya and Nadya realise they’ve found something neither knew they were looking for - genuine connection. Their relationship develops against the backdrop of Ippolit’s increasingly frantic attempts to reclaim his fiancée and Zhenya’s half-hearted efforts to return to Moscow.
The film works on multiple levels about microdistricts. On the surface, it’s a romantic comedy about mistaken identity and chance encounters. But beneath that, it’s a sharp critique of Soviet urban planning and how standardised, soulless architecture reflected the predictable lives people were expected to live. The identical apartments become a metaphor for the identical lives - same jobs, same routines, same furniture, same lack of individual expression.
The Irony of Fate isn’t just that two strangers can accidentally swap lives in identical Soviet apartments - it’s that this absurd system of urban uniformity, designed to create order and efficiency, actually makes the conditions for the most unexpected and transformative human connections. The film suggests that even within the most rigid systems, the human heart finds ways to assert its need for authentic love and genuine choice. Ahhhhhh!
The film remains a beloved New Year’s tradition across the former Soviet Union precisely because it captures something essential about the Soviet urban experience - the way grand planning schemes intersected with intimate human stories, creating moments of unexpected magic within the most mundane circumstances. I saw the film years ago and still remember the storyline. Love it!
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A walk around Imanta
This will not be on the standard list of things to see and do as a tourist, but if you are in Rīga with a couple of hours to spare, do try it. You will gain a taste of what it was, and still is, like to live in a Soviet-built microdistrict. Imanta is very easy to get to from the centre of Rīga by tram, bus or train. It takes about 30 minutes. My tour starts from the traffic light junction of Zentenes iela and Kurzemes prospekts, which is between the Imanta tram stop, Imanta railway station and many bus routes. Start walking along Zentenes iela, then turn left and immediately right at the end of the car park. You will come to a lovely grass square with microdistrict blocks on all sides. You will also see small family houses in the middle of this area. Keep on walking along the minor road and turn right to rejoin Zentenes iela at its end.
You will see further examples of Soviet buildings on this road. Turn left just before you get to the main road, Anniņmuižas iela. Heading north on the quiet side of the building, you will again see some lovely examples of this planned housing area. Look at those odd balconies protruding from the building facade. Go around the Rimi supermarket and cross Dammes iela. The Rimi is situated in a building that was intended to be a Rīga Metro line stop in the 1980s. This would have been the end of the planned underground metro line, but it was never built. Many Rimi supermarkets are located in planned Metro stations. In front of you are two high-rise blocks. These are the ‘Imanta twin towers’, 25 stories high, that were built in 2004 and 2006. A third sibling was never built. Go behind them and turn left. You will pass some examples of 602s where loggias fit into the plane of the box-shaped facade with irregular, scattered balconies. These were built in the second half of the 1970s and the first half of the 1980s. As the road turns left, follow it. You will notice that these quiet roads are tree-lined and rather pleasant. Cross Dammes iela and follow Slokas iela, again past some different microdistrict blocks. You will eventually return to where you started. About an hour walk if you take photos, like me! As you walk, you may notice that Russian is the predominant language spoken. Imanta was and still is a Russian part of Rīga.
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At first glance, these microdistricts may look ugly due to the predominantly concrete block housing. But look closely and you will see planned communities of housing centred around grass squares with playgrounds, and amenities close by. These are ideas that, years later, have become fashionable globally.
What was initially constructed as a cheap and quick-to-construct solution for population growth now provides affordable housing for Rīga’s less well-off residents. You will often see people walking along the tree-lined pavements in summer, as they are relatively free of traffic.
Although it is not fashionable in Latvia to mention anything connected to the country’s Soviet era, the microdistricts are a part of history that has survived. Unlike the statues of prominent Russians!
[Illustration by An Englishman in Latvia. Music by catch22music from Pixabay]
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